Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Bacon, Brussels Sprouts & Smoked Mozzarella Pizza

First pizza post of what is likely to be several to come. Tonight's dinner is inspired by what I often order at my favorite pizzeria in the city. Their version is a white (sauceless) pie, non-smoked mozzarella, and instead of bacon, they use pancetta, which has much less of a smokey flavor. Since I don't have a pizza oven that reaches 800 degrees F, I form my pizza in a pre-heated cast-iron skillet and then transfer it down to the broiler. Though this method takes longer than it would with a blazing hot wood-fire or brick oven, it cooks the pizza much more rapidly than just sticking it in the oven to bake, and, gives you a nice crispy crust with char just as you would find in a pizzeria.

I will hesitantly confess that due to how little counterspace I have, I do not make my own dough. I've tried it before and had relative success, but have found that it's just much easier and more practical to buy the $0.99 dough at Trader Joe's. It's a quality product and a great value, and frankly, the 16-ounce portion is enough to make two pies, that is, if you like your crust relatively thin. If the TJ's after-work line is too long for you to bear or if there isn't a TJ's near you, a good alternative is to walk into the nearest decent pizzeria and ask them to sell you a ball of dough. Before I discovered the TJ's option, I did this often, and found that the going price is about $3.00 here in New York.

Now, whether I prepare homemade sauce depends on how much time I have. My go-to recipe is one large can of San Marzano crushed or whole tomatoes, a large onion split in half, a few garlic cloves split in half, and a large handful of basil leaves, seasoned with salt, pepper, and oregano. Cook all of this over medium-heat until the sauce starts to spatter; at this point, it's best to reduce the heat to low. When the extra liquid has evaporated and the sauce has thickened, fish out the garlic and onions halves. You'll have plenty of sauce for your pizza and, if you'd like, for breadsticks, which I prepare with any remaining dough. If you're in a hurry, just use your favorite marinara sauce.

Ingredients:
16-ounce ball of dough
Flour
Olive oil
Sauce
Smoked mozzarella, 4-6 ounces
Three slices thick-cut bacon
Petals of four brussels sprouts
Salt, pepper and oregano
Asiago cheese

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven, with cast-iron skillet inside, to 500 degrees F.
(2) While oven is pre-heating, fry bacon and prepare dough. Assuming use of a standard 10-inch cast iron skillet, divide dough into equal portions. Coat dough in flour so that it moves around quite easily on whatever surface you're using to prepare it. I often use a large, round pizza pan. Set aside one portion of the dough for breadsticks, and knead and stretch the other portion to fit skillet. Do not, however, introduce it to the skillet yet. Drizzle dough with olive oil and rub.
(3) Since once you introduce the dough to the skillet, it will cook very rapidly, you must have all of your toppings ready to go, a technique called mise-en-place ("set in place"). Cut mozzarella into thin discs, cut bacon into small chunks, and remove the petals from the brussels sprouts.
(4) Introduce the dough to the skillet, the side rubbed with olive oil going face-down. The olive oil prevents the dough from sticking to the super-hot pan. NEVER, and I repeat NEVER, add olive oil directly to a screaming hot pan, as it will likely combust within seconds. Olive oil has a very low smoke point.
(5) Add sauce, mozzarella, bacon, and brussels sprout petals. After a couple of minutes of cooking on the stovetop, transfer pizza to under broiler. It only needs a few more minutes' worth of cooking, so check after 90 seconds and then again with each passing minute.
(6) As soon as pizza is introduced to broiler, cut breadsticks from reserved dough. Brush or drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper and oregano. Twist or extend breadsticks as you wish, and introduce them to oven.
(7) When pizza's crust is golden brown and brussels sprout petals are slightly charred, remove skillet from broiler. Since the skillet will be extremely hot, remove it with a thick oven mit or kitchen towl. Firmly grip the skillet with one hand, and with the other hand, use a spoon or metal spatula to slide the pizza out from the skillet and onto a serving platter.
(8) Top pizza with thinly shaved or grated asiago cheese.
(9) A few minutes later, check on the breadsticks. If they are not yet a light golden color, leave them in the oven for a couple minutes longer. Serve with any remaining sauce and a simple arugula salad.

Here are some close-ups:

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