Thursday, January 27, 2011

Salsa Verde

Salsa verde is usually slightly sweet and quite mild on the salsa spectrum. Since I tend to prefer my salsas a bit more aggressive in terms of flavor, I turned up the heat a bit on my version, omitted the sugar that's often added, and increased the amount of citrus usually used. The result is a medium-spicy, tart but balanced sauce that's great as a dip or served with chicken or eggs.

Ingredients:
Six tomatillos
Two poblano peppers
One large serrano chile
Three cloves garlic
Half of a large onion
Juice of one lime
Pinch of salt

Procedure:
(1) Remove husks from tomatillos, then boil them for 5-10 minutes until the skin on all has started to split.
(2) Remove tomatillos with a slotted spoon and peel skin. Cut into chunks.
(3) If you have a gas stove, roast each of the poblanos over a burner until skin is thouroughly charred. If you don't have a gas stove, do this in the broiler.
(4) When roasting is complete, put the poblanos in a closed plastic bag and allow them to sit in their own steam for about 10 minutes. This will make it easier for you to remove their skins. When skins are removed, slice poblanos into strips.
(5) Cut the serrano, garlic, and onions into chunks.
(6) Add all ingredients into a blender or food processor with the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Blend to desired consistency.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Salty Sticky Sweet Vinegar Drumsticks


I was browsing Serious Eats last week when I found a recipe for "vinegar-glazed chicken." Since I am a vinegar fan, I just had to try it, but with my own spin. Instead of serving the chicken over polenta, as the recipe suggested, I came to the conclusion that with football season in full swing, why not serve these drumsticks in the style of chicken wings? They are salty, sticky, sweet, and finger-lickin' good, and would be just as well-received at a Super Bowl party as they would at a sit-down dinner party. If you're serving them as finger food, a good blue cheese dressing would pair well with the tartness of the vinegar glaze on the meat.


Ingredients:
Chicken drumsticks (here, I used 8 large ones)
3/4-cup vinegar*
Four cloves garlic
Three teaspoons chopped rosemary
Salt and pepper, to taste
3/4-cup chicken broth
Olive oil

*Here, I used rice vinegar. Red wine vinegar would also work well. However, I would avoid balsamic vinegar for this particular recipe due to how quicky it thickens and hardens as it is heated. If it hardens around the drumsticks and on the sides of the pan, it can cause the drumsticks to taste burnt and bitter.

Procedure:
(1) Combine vinegar with minced garlic and chopped rosemary. Allow flavors to meld as you prepare the chicken.
(2) Season drumsticks with salt and pepper.
(3) Add a splash of olive oil to the pan and put on medium heat. Add drumsticks and brown on all sides.
(4) When chicken is thoroughly browned, remove drumsticks to a plate and remove any excess oil from the plan. Deglaze the plan with chicken broth and return drumsticks to that same pan.
(5) Allow chicken broth to reduce until about 75% of it is gone from the pan. At this point, add the vinegar/garlic/rosemary mixture.
(6) As the vinegar mixture reduces, turn drumsticks so that they are coated on all sides. Remove pan from burner when sauce is thick and syrupy in consistency, and serve chicken soon after.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Baba Ghanoush


For a long time, I tried so hard to love eggplant. It's just that with all the mediocre-to-bad eggplant parmesan I had eaten over the years, I felt my quest to be converted was destined to fail. I may have had a decent caponata once, but just wasn't convinced. But then, one day in late 2007, soon after moving to New York, I went on a limb and ordered "fire roasted eggplant dip" at a hole-in-the-wall Middle Eastern place in Brooklyn at 2:00 in the morning. It had a tangy, smokey and complex flavor that was nothing like the slimy, bitter eggplant I had tasted in the past. The dish's Arabic name was baba ghanoush, and it made me an eggplant convert. Akin to fashion, this dish is a testament to how essential it is to prepare ingredients in ways that are flattering to their textures and flavor profiles. And yes, I'm thinking of you, too, brussels sprouts!

I got this recipe from David Lebovitz's Living the Sweet Life in Paris blog, and made just a few small modifications.

Ingredients:
Two large eggplants (also known as aubergines)
1/2-cup tahini*
Three cloves garlic
Juice of two lemons
Depending on how thick you want the dip to be, either 1 or 1-1/2 tablespoon olive oil
Salt, to taste
Teaspoon smoked paprika
Cilantro or parsley, a handful to be incorporated into the dip and more to garnish it
Olives, for garnish

*Tahini is a ground sesame paste that can be found in Middle Eastern markets and in many supermarkets. It's an ingredient in hummus as well.

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
(2) If you have a gas stove, char each eggplant, one per burner, directly over the open flame and turn it every minute or so until all sides are slightly charred. This should take about 5 minutes and will impart a slightly smokey flavor on the eggplant's inner flesh. For a more aggressive smokey flavor, char for 10 minutes. If you have an electric stove, use the broiler to achieve the same char effect.
(2) Put the eggplants on a tray and let bake for 30 minutes. When eggplants are ready, remove from oven and allow to cool slightly to make it easier for you to handle the flesh,.
(3) When eggplants have cooled slightly, scoop out all of the flesh.
(4) Using a blender or food processor, combine the eggplant flesh with the tahini, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, cilantro or parsley, smoked paprika, and salt.
(5) Garnish with olives and remaining cilantro or parsley, and serve with pita bread or cucumber slices for dipping.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Coconut-Breaded Tilapia with Pineapple Salsa and Cuban Black Beans

Sometimes during the cold winter, I just want to eat something that reminds me of the warm waters of the Caribbean. If you desire to be reminded of the same, try this quick, easy meal. I bread the tilapia in the same way I bread coconut shrimp, but instead of serving it with a dipping sauce, I prepare a chunky pineapple salsa to go over it. To complete the plate, I serve Cuban black beans that have been adorned with fresh cilantro and crumbled cotija cheese.


COCONUT-BREADED TILAPIA

Ingredients:
Tilapia filets (here I used four)
Flour
1/4-can coconut milk
Dried or shredded coconut
One egg
Oil for light frying

Procedure:
(1) At least 30 minutes before you wish to serve the tilapia, it will need to be breaded and the breading will need to set. Breading ahead of time and placing the breaded fish in the fridge will help the breading to stick so that it won't come apart during the cooking process. Set up a breading station with three large bowls; one for the flour, another for the coconut milk mixed with the egg, and another for the dried or shredded coconut. If you use long, sweet coconut shreds, it is best to combine these with panko breadcrumbs. Dried coconut is already very similar in texture to breadcrumbs and can be used on its own.
(2) Rub flour on both sides of each filet. Transfer each filet to the coconut milk and egg mixture and coat thoroughly, shaking off any excess. Finally, thoroughly coat each filet with coconut.
(3) When breading is complete, transfer filets immediately to the fridge. Allow them to sit for at least 30 minutes so that the breading hardens somewhat; it sticks better this way.
(4) Cover the bottom of a large skillet with oil for cooking. There is no need to submerge the filets entirely, as they will be flipped halfway through cooking. Set the burner to medium heat.
(5) When oil is ready, introduce the filets to the skillet but do not overcrowd it. If you can only comfortably fit two filets in the skillet, that is fine; just do a second batch. Fry each filet until it is golden brown on the bottom, and then do the same to the reverse side.
(6) Remove fish to a double-folded paper towel to collect any excess oil.

PINEAPPLE SALSA

Ingredients:
Two cups pineapple, cut into small cubes
1/2-red onion, diced
1/2-jalapeƱo, diced
Handful of cilantro, chopped
Juice of one lime

Procedure: Combine all ingredients and allow to sit in the fridge while the fish's breading sets. This allows all flavors of the ingredients to meld and produces a more cohesive salsa.

CUBAN BLACK BEANS

Ingredients:
Can of black beans
1/2-red onion, minced
Four cloves garlic, minced
Juice of one lime
Oregano
Salt and pepper
Cumin
Handful of cilantro (for garnish)
Crumbled cotija cheese (for garnish)
Olive oil

Procedure:
(1) Drizzle olive oil into a saucepan. Saute onions for a few minutes and then add garlic. Stir well and allow to cook for a couple more minutes.
(2) Add lime juice and season with salt, pepper, oregano, and cumin.
(3) Add beans and stir well. Allow beans to cook until the sauce is at the thickness you desire.
(4) Garnish beans with crumbled cotija cheese and plenty of chopped cilantro.



Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Bacon, Brussels Sprouts & Smoked Mozzarella Pizza

First pizza post of what is likely to be several to come. Tonight's dinner is inspired by what I often order at my favorite pizzeria in the city. Their version is a white (sauceless) pie, non-smoked mozzarella, and instead of bacon, they use pancetta, which has much less of a smokey flavor. Since I don't have a pizza oven that reaches 800 degrees F, I form my pizza in a pre-heated cast-iron skillet and then transfer it down to the broiler. Though this method takes longer than it would with a blazing hot wood-fire or brick oven, it cooks the pizza much more rapidly than just sticking it in the oven to bake, and, gives you a nice crispy crust with char just as you would find in a pizzeria.

I will hesitantly confess that due to how little counterspace I have, I do not make my own dough. I've tried it before and had relative success, but have found that it's just much easier and more practical to buy the $0.99 dough at Trader Joe's. It's a quality product and a great value, and frankly, the 16-ounce portion is enough to make two pies, that is, if you like your crust relatively thin. If the TJ's after-work line is too long for you to bear or if there isn't a TJ's near you, a good alternative is to walk into the nearest decent pizzeria and ask them to sell you a ball of dough. Before I discovered the TJ's option, I did this often, and found that the going price is about $3.00 here in New York.

Now, whether I prepare homemade sauce depends on how much time I have. My go-to recipe is one large can of San Marzano crushed or whole tomatoes, a large onion split in half, a few garlic cloves split in half, and a large handful of basil leaves, seasoned with salt, pepper, and oregano. Cook all of this over medium-heat until the sauce starts to spatter; at this point, it's best to reduce the heat to low. When the extra liquid has evaporated and the sauce has thickened, fish out the garlic and onions halves. You'll have plenty of sauce for your pizza and, if you'd like, for breadsticks, which I prepare with any remaining dough. If you're in a hurry, just use your favorite marinara sauce.

Ingredients:
16-ounce ball of dough
Flour
Olive oil
Sauce
Smoked mozzarella, 4-6 ounces
Three slices thick-cut bacon
Petals of four brussels sprouts
Salt, pepper and oregano
Asiago cheese

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven, with cast-iron skillet inside, to 500 degrees F.
(2) While oven is pre-heating, fry bacon and prepare dough. Assuming use of a standard 10-inch cast iron skillet, divide dough into equal portions. Coat dough in flour so that it moves around quite easily on whatever surface you're using to prepare it. I often use a large, round pizza pan. Set aside one portion of the dough for breadsticks, and knead and stretch the other portion to fit skillet. Do not, however, introduce it to the skillet yet. Drizzle dough with olive oil and rub.
(3) Since once you introduce the dough to the skillet, it will cook very rapidly, you must have all of your toppings ready to go, a technique called mise-en-place ("set in place"). Cut mozzarella into thin discs, cut bacon into small chunks, and remove the petals from the brussels sprouts.
(4) Introduce the dough to the skillet, the side rubbed with olive oil going face-down. The olive oil prevents the dough from sticking to the super-hot pan. NEVER, and I repeat NEVER, add olive oil directly to a screaming hot pan, as it will likely combust within seconds. Olive oil has a very low smoke point.
(5) Add sauce, mozzarella, bacon, and brussels sprout petals. After a couple of minutes of cooking on the stovetop, transfer pizza to under broiler. It only needs a few more minutes' worth of cooking, so check after 90 seconds and then again with each passing minute.
(6) As soon as pizza is introduced to broiler, cut breadsticks from reserved dough. Brush or drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper and oregano. Twist or extend breadsticks as you wish, and introduce them to oven.
(7) When pizza's crust is golden brown and brussels sprout petals are slightly charred, remove skillet from broiler. Since the skillet will be extremely hot, remove it with a thick oven mit or kitchen towl. Firmly grip the skillet with one hand, and with the other hand, use a spoon or metal spatula to slide the pizza out from the skillet and onto a serving platter.
(8) Top pizza with thinly shaved or grated asiago cheese.
(9) A few minutes later, check on the breadsticks. If they are not yet a light golden color, leave them in the oven for a couple minutes longer. Serve with any remaining sauce and a simple arugula salad.

Here are some close-ups:

Monday, January 17, 2011

Roasted Parsnip Wedges

I love parsnips. To me they taste like a combination of carrots and celeriac, and like those other vegetables, are perfect for roasting.

Ingredients:
Parsnips
Olive oil
Parsley
Garlic powder
Salt and pepper

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
(2) Cut the parsnips into wedges and distribute onto a baking pan.
(3) Coat well with olive oil and sprinkle liberally with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.
(4) When the oven is ready, roast the parsnips for about 40 minutes. A little more than halfway through the cooking time, toss them so that the crispier bottoms are now rightside-up.
(5) The finished product should be crispy on the edges and still somewhat soft in the center. Sprinkle with a generous amount of chopped parsley.

Potato, Tomato, Onion & Apple Curry

Admittedly, this is not the most photogenic dish. It is, however, inexpensive, fragrant, and well-balanced in terms of flavor. Though I am not a vegetarian, I do not miss meat when eating this as a main course.

I started making this dish a few months ago when I had a surplus of little grape tomatoes on hand. I put them in a pan over low heat with some olive oil, and as the tomatoes started to release their juices, added some chopped onion and herbs. For dinner that night, I ate simply that mixture over leftover rice. As you will see, I have added some ingredients to make this a one-pot dish with a nod to India that is big on flavor and easy on clean-up.

Ingredients:
Two potatoes, cubed
Two apples, cubed
Two medium-sized onions, cut into thin rings
Two packages of grape or cherry tomatoes
Greek yogurt
Chicken or vegetable stock
Olive oil
Garam masala*
Nutmeg
Cinnamon
Salt and pepper
Fresh mint

*This is a spice mix that can be purchased in South Asian or Middle Eastern groceries and even in some supermarkets with a good selection of spices. If you cannot find it, many online retailers carry it. If you wish, you can substitute common yellow curry powder, but be advised that the taste of the curry will be less balanced.

Procedure:
(1) Drizzle some olive oil in a deep pot and set to medium heat. Add the tomatoes along with a few pinches of salt and pepper.
(2) After about five minutes, the tomatoes will start to release some of their juices. At this point, add the onion and stir to coat it with the tomato juice.
(3) When the onion has cooked down and significantly softened, add the potato and apple cubes.
(4) Add a three pinches of garam masala and a pinch each of nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir to evenly distribute.
(5) Allow the mixture to cook down and all of the liquid in the pot to be absorbed. At this point, add about a cup of chicken or vegetable stock and stir.
(6) When the chicken stock has been absorbed, fish out a potato cube and test for doneness. If the potato is not completely cooked, add a bit more chicken stock and test again in a few minutes.
(7) When the potatoes have cooked through, take the pot off of the heat and add a few tablespoons of greek yogurt. Stir well and serve in bowls, garnished with plenty of fresh mint.

Donuts for Brunch


I don't prepare a lot of sweets, let alone in the A.M. hours. However, given yesterday's bitter cold, my morning hunger, and a sparsely-stocked fridge, I wanted something quick and satisfying to start out the day. Since last week one of the stores I frequent had a great sale on canned biscuits, I happened to have some left over and decided to use them to make these donuts. Yes, I know, I could have made the batter myself, but since I'm much more into cooking than baking and my stomach was growling, the canned biscuits served me well!

Ingredients:
Vegetable oil
Canned biscuits (these can be found in the butter and yogurt aisle of your grocery store)
Sugar
Cinnamon

Procedure:
(1) Put enough vegetable oil in a frying pan to cover the bottom with about one inch of depth. There's no need to deep fry these; in other words, there's no need that the entire donut be submerged. Set burner to medium heat.
(2) Set out each biscuit and punch a large hole to remove its center. This is best done with a screw-cap that you would find on a bottle of water or soda. Don't get rid of what you take out from the center; these will be donut holes that you can fry after the donuts themselves are done!
(3) Test the oil to see if it's ready for frying. This can be done by dropping one of the donut holes into the oil. If it starts turning dark brown very quickly or the kitchen starts smelling smokey, the oil is too hot. If there's little-to-no bubbling when you drop it in, the oil is too cold.
(4) When your oil is ready, put in several donuts. Don't overcrowd the pan, as this will cause the temperature of the oil to drop and in turn could cause your donuts to absorb too much oil, making them soggy. As the donuts puff up and turn golden brown, flip them and allow the other side to do the same.
(5) When the donuts are done, take them out of the oil with a pair of tongs and place them on a double-folded paper towel to collect any excess oil. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon while still warm and serve soon after.