Maple-Pepper Pork Chops with Red Wine Caramelized Onions & Sage

I'm back! It's been far too long since I've made my last post. It's been a crazy, busy summer and I am excited by the arrival of autumn, my favorite season. Though I've done my fair share of cooking while I've been away from the blog, I unfortunately haven't photographed much of what I've made. My next few updates, however, will feature some of the stuff I have managed to photograph.

Believe it or not, the dish I'm featuring in this post is the product of a "use whatever is in the fridge/pantry" challenge of sorts. It was the night before hurricane Irene was to hit New York, I was home alone, and the MTA subway and buses weren't operating. This meant that if something wasn't in walking distance, I basically couldn't go unless I wanted to pay cab fare both ways. Around 9:00 P.M., I was already bored and wanted to eat. Because I didn't want to open the hurricane supplies - read: peanut butter, bread, pop tarts, Trader Joe's non-perishable curries, etc. - I decided that it would be a good idea to try to use some things that would spoil if we were to lose power later that night. Since I had some thick-cut, boneless pork chops, a small onion - and some sage growing outside of my window - this challenge wasn't a very difficult one. I really shouldn't even be calling it a challenge, at all.

Ingredients:

Boneless pork chops, preferably thick-cut

1 small onion, chopped

3 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar (any kind of vinegar would be fine here)

Salt and pepper

1/2-cup red wine

2 tablespoons butter

Fresh sage, to taste

Procedure:

(1) Sautee the onions in 1 tablespoon of melted butter over medium heat, for about 10-15 minutes. After onions have begun to soften, be sure to stir frequently so that they don't burn. Note that you won't need to do a standard low-heat, 45-minute-plus caramelization here because the addition of the wine, vinegar and maple syrup will help to soften the onions and accelerate the process.

(2) Add the wine, vinegar and maple syrup and turn down the heat to low-medium.

(3) Salt both sides of the pork chops. Pepper liberally. These pork chops need black pepper's bite to stand up to the somewhat sweet sauce that will go over them.

(4) Over medium-high heat, sear the pork chops for a few minutes. Flip and allow to sear for a few more minutes on their reverse side.

(5) When pork is cooked, add each chop to the sauce - after adding the remaining tablespoon of butter - and coat thoroughly.

(6) Remove to a serving platter, spoon sauce over the top of each chop and finish with a liberal sprinkle of fresh sage in chiffonade.

Red Snapper Filets in a Coconut Milk, Tomato & Saffron Sauce

Fish poached in a coconut milk-based sauce can be found throughout the Caribbean and Southeast Asia. Though many such dishes contain sauteed onions and peppers, Caribbean versions often add potatoes and coconut pulp while Southeast asian versions often add lemongrass, basil and heat in the form of chiles. Here, I set out to make my own version of red snapper with coconut milk, and ended up adding tomato paste, saffron and lime.

Ingredients:

4 red snapper filets

1 14-ounce can coconut milk

1 onion, sliced

2 bell peppers: 1 green and 1 red, sliced

1 pinch saffron

1 lime

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Salt and pepper, to taste

Dried oregano, to taste

Olive oil

Procedure:

(1) Shake can of coconut milk. Add saffron and stir.

(2) Sautee sliced onion and peppers in olive oil over medium heat for 5-10 minutes.

(3) Turn down heat to medium-low and add saffron-infused coconut milk.

(4) Juice one lime over contents of pan and stir well to incorporate.

(5) Season fish filets with salt, pepper and oregano and add to pan. Spoon some of the vegetables and sauce over the filets.

(6) After fish has cooked for at least a few minutes on one side, flip filets with a spatula and allow to cook for a few more minutes.

(7) Serve immediately with white rice.

Green Apple, Marcona Almond & Idiazábal Cheese Slaw

I have never liked cole slaw, the picnic and church social standby side of shredded cabbage, iceberg lettuce and grated carrot in a mayonnaise-based dressing. I don't particularly dislike any one of its elements, but the combination of flavors have never appealed to me.

About five years ago, when I lived in Madrid, I discovered my inspiration for this dish in a tapas bar near the Plaza de Santa Ana. A couple of friends and I were tapeando (going from tapas bar to tapas bar, filling up on small plates and having plenty of wine) a little before midnight, which is when nightlife in Madrid really gets going. Unfortunately, because there are dozens of places like the one I visited, I can't recall exactly which bar it was! The good news is that I have remembered very well the different components of the "salad," as the bar called it: crisp, green apple; rich, nutty Idiazábal cheese, sliced Marcona almonds and a rosemary vinaigrette.

Ingredients:

4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, grated or cut into matchsticks

1 cup Idiazábal (Manchego can be substituted) cheese, grated or cut into matchsticks

1/2-cup Marcona almonds, sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 teaspoons red wine vinegar

3 teaspoons dijon mustard

Rosemary, chopped, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

Procedure:

(1) Combine apple, cheese and almonds in a bowl.

(2) Mix red wine vinegar, dijon mustard, plenty of chopped rosemary and a bit of black pepper in another bowl. Slowly pour in olive oil, whisking constantly and rapidly.

(3) Incorporate vinaigrette into other ingredients and serve slaw either immediately or chilled, on its own or over a bed of arugula.

Fire-Roasted Red Pepper, Garlic & Lemon Hoummous

Hoummous is a quick, easy, healthy and inexpensive snack, spread or dip. Though it's pretty easy to find in any well-stocked market, it's one of those things that I have almost always found tastes better when freshly-made and customized with your favorite ingredients. Just get out your blender or food processor and start creating, as hoummous requires little planning and only one "special" ingredient that you may not find everywhere: tahini*, or sesame paste.

Though Middle Eastern hoummous is traditionally made with the bases of chickpeas and tahini, Mediterranean hoummous often contains, in addition to those ingredients, olive oil and lemon juice. Though tahini gives hoummous sufficient creaminess, I find that the addition of olive oil adds an element of richness and that the acidity of lemon juice balances nicely against the chickpea base, which can, if not properly combined with other ingredients, taste mealy. Rest assured that this will not be a concern if you follow this recipe.

Ingredients:

1 14-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzos), rinsed and drained.

1/2-cup tahini

1 fire-roasted red pepper

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Juice of 1 lemon

Handful cilantro

Olive oil, to taste. Here, I use a couple of tablespoons.

Salt, a few pinches

Cumin, a few pinches

Procedure:

(1) If you have a gas stove, set the burner to medium and place the red pepper directly over the flame. Turn every minute or two with a pair of tongs to char the skin on all sides. Once charred, rub off the charred skin with a paper towel and slice the pepper. If you don't have a gas stove, you can use the broiler to achieve the charring effect, or, if you wish to skip this step entirely, just substitute half of a small can of roasted red peppers.

(2) Rinse and drain chickpeas.

(3) Place chickpeas, tahini, roasted red pepper, garlic, lemon juice, cilantro, olive oil, salt and cumin in blender or food processor and blend/process until desired consistency is achieved.

(4) Garnish with paprika, cumin, lemon zest or whole chickpeas and serve alongside pita bread for an instant snack.

*Tahini can be found in all Middle Eastern markets and also in most Greek, Indian and Italian markets. Many supermarkets carry it, as well.

Ahi Tuna Steaks with Sesame Oil, Wasabi, Scallions, Ginger & Lime

The inspiration of today's post is Ina Garten's ahi tuna salad that I first prepared a couple of years ago. In my version, however, I leave out the avocado and don't cut the tuna steaks into chunks. This dish takes well under ten minutes to prepare, start to finish, and is one of the easiest entree dishes I know. This makes a great week-night dinner, served alongside rice or scallion pancakes.

Ingredients:
2 large ahi tuna steaks
Sesame oil, to taste
1/2 of a small bunch of scallions, chopped
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon wasabi paste
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot sauce

Procedure:
(1) Heat a cast iron or metal skillet to medium-high.
(2) While skillet is heating, season the tuna steaks with salt and pepper.
(3) Sear the tuna steaks for about one minute per side. Both sides should be slightly browned and the center should still be pink.
(4) When tuna steaks are done, form the sauce to top them by combining sesame oil, chopped ginger, lime juice, wasabi paste, hot sauce and scallions.

Picadillo Empanadas

Empanadas are savory "turnovers" that are common as streetfood in Latin America and Mediterranean Europe. Common fillings include flaked fish, potato, fried and mashed banana, pork, shredded chicken, and, most commonly found in Cuba and Miami - picadillo. Picadillo is a ground beef hash that contains browned onions, garlic, red pepper, green olives, tomato sauce or paste, citrus juice (sour orange and lime, particularly), oregano, and, depending on the cook, some sweet elements. The first memorable picadillo I ate as a child contained cinnamon, so I add that, as well as chopped dates or raisins. Don't let the cinnamon and dates/raisins throw you off; picadillo is a decidedly savory dish. A little bit of sweetness will keep your guests asking what the secret ingredient to the dish is.

PICADILLO

Ingredients:
2 pounds ground beef
2 large onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 red peppers, chopped
20 green olives, halved (the bottled Manzanilla variety is perfect)
1 sour orange
2 limes
10 dates, chopped
6 ounces tomato paste (or, alternatively, 10 ounces tomato sauce)
Oregano, to taste
Cinnamon, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste

Procedure:
(1) Brown onions in a large, deep pan with a bit of olive oil.
(2) Add minced garlic and peppers, and sautee for a few more minutes.
(3) Add ground beef, combine well with other ingredients, and cook until brown.
(4) Season with ground black pepper, cinnamon, and oregano.
(5) Add tomato paste or sauce and stir well to combine.
(6) Add olives to the pan, along with a splash or two of the brine in which the olives are bottled. If doing this, there is no need to add salt; the olives and brine are salty enough.
(7) Juice limes and sour orange over the pan; stir well to combine.
(8) Add chopped dates or raisins. At this point, you will notice that there is a bit of extra liquid and fat in the pan. Do not drain this; allow the meat the simmer on low for about 15 more minutes so that all of the excess liquid is absorbed into the hash.

EMPANADAS

Ingredients:
Empanada discs (usually sold in the frozen foods aisle by Goya or another Latin American brand) Oil for frying

Procedure:
(1) Make sure that empanada discs are thawed before you begin to assemble the actual empanadas. They thaw quickly; just remove them from the freezer as you start the filling for the empanadas and they should be ready once the filling is done.
(2) Heat approximately one inch of oil in a large pan. It is unnecessary to deep fry empanadas; shallow-frying and turning them over once is just as effective. Fry on one side until golden brown and then turn with tongs to achieve the same result on the other side. I usually fry 5-6 empanadas per batch. Keep in mind that once the oil is well-heated, empanadas will take only about a minute or less to fry on each side.
(3) Once done, remove from oil and place onto a plate covered with double-folded paper towls. Blot excess oil to ensure crispiness when serving.

Halloumi Pita Sandwiches with Harissa-Spiked Hoummous, Oil-Cured Black Olives and Arugula

I was first introduced to halloumi cheese at Athens Cafe in Astoria, Queens, the heart of New York's Greek and Cypriot community. Halloumi melts at a much slower rate than other cheeses and is well-suited for grilling and pan frying. It is filling, "meaty," and "squeaks" when you bite into it.

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I was first introduced to harissa-spiked hoummous, a/k/a "spicy hoummous," at a sampling at Sahadi's in Brooklyn Heights, only two blocks from my first New York apartment. Harissa is a sauce of several blended spices that is popular in the Maghreb (far north Africa along the Mediterranean) and, to a lesser extent, in France. It gives creamy hoummous - some makes of which I find pretty monotonous and one-toned - a nice kick and complexity of flavor.

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One day, in my apartment during law school, I decided to spread harissa-spiked hoummous onto a pita, put grilled halloumi cheese onto it, and added some Moroccan oil-cured black olives and arugula. From that moment, this sandwich was born.

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Ingredients:

Halloumi cheese, thickly sliced

Pitted olives (here, I used Moroccan oil-cured black olives)

Hoummous, preferably spiked with harissa or hot sauce

Pita bread

Arugula

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Procedure:

(1) Grill or pan fry halloumi slices until golden brown on bottom; flip so that slices become browned on other side.

(2) Open pita pocket and spread hoummous within.

(3) Insert two slices of halloumi. Add olives and arugula.

Dark Chocolate Fudge with Smoked Sea Salt

This is one of the easiest dessert recipes you could possibly make. It has three - yes, three - ingredients and takes less than five minutes to put together. And, pretty much anyone who likes chocolate likes fudge. The richness of the dark chocolate topped with the complexity of oak-smoked sea salt gives you a memorable dessert of which you're likely to want more than just one serving.

Ingredients:
1-12 ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 pound dark chocolate (here, I used Ghirardelli chips)
Sea salt (here, I used an oak-smoked variety)

Procedure:
(1) Create a makeshift double boiler by placing a heat-safe bowl over a small pot of water at a low boil.
(2) Pour sweetened condensed milk into bowl, and immediately add chocolate chips.
(3) Mix well until chocolate is uniformly melted.
(4) Pour mixture into a pan lined with wax paper or parchment paper; top with salt. Allow to set for at least an hour in the refreigerator, or, alternatively, in a cool spot at room temperature for two hours, before serving.

Thai Curry-Coconut Soup with Shrimp

Though I tend to favor thick, pureed vegetable-based soups as accompaniments to main dishes, there are a few soups I have had that struck me as perfect as meals on their own. This Thai-inspired curry-coconut soup is one of them. This soup's broth is fantastic - vegetable, chicken, or shrimp stock simmered with coconut milk, red curry paste, ginger, garlic and onions, with a splash each of lime juice and fish sauce, respectively. The soup gets its heartiness from a few generous handfuls of kale and oyster mushrooms as well as succulent shrimp poached in the soup before serving. Garnish with cilantro, lime slices or wedges, and serve in large bowls for a satisfying meal that needs little else on the side, save for perhaps a mango or papaya salad.

Ingredients:
1 large onion
3 cloves minced garlic
1 teaspoon minced ginger
3 bird chiles, seeded and chopped
1 piece lemongrass
1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste
1/2-pound oyster mushrooms
1/2-pound shrimp
1 can coconut milk
4 cups vegetable, chicken, or shrimp stock
Juice of 2-3 limes
2 tablespoons fish sauce
3 handfuls kale, torn into bite-sized pieces

Procedure:
(1) Sautee onions, garlic, and ginger in a pot over medium heat for about 7-8 minutes.
(2) Add curry paste and combine with other contents of the pot.
(3) Add coconut milk and stock.
(4) Cut several incisions in the piece of lemongrass and add it to the pot.
(5) Add lime juice, fish sauce, and chopped chiles.
(6) Allow contents to just barely reach a simmer, then add mushrooms and shrimp. Stir for a few minutes until shrimp have turned orange - this means they are cooked.
(7) Add kale and cook for about 2 more minutes.
(8) Remove lemongrass from the pot.
(9) Serve soup in large bowls, garnished with cilantro and lime slices or wedges.

Pizza Redux

I usually make two small pizzas every week or so. Over the last two weeks, I have made the following, from top to bottom.

(1) Applewood-smoked bacon, arugula, and chili oil;
(2) Caramelized onions, Moroccan olives, blue cheese, and thyme;
(3) Soppressata, serrano rings, and shaved garlic; and
(4) Applewood-smoked bacon, asiago, and rosemary.

All pizzas were cooked in a cast iron skillet using the method I detail here, with standard mozzarella cheese and a simple tomato sauce as a base. Sometime in the near future, I'm planning on making a pissaladiere as well as a cherry tomato tart, so be on the lookout for those updates!

Malta-Orange Braised Chicken over Sage-Parsnip Puree

What if I were to tell you that the secret ingredient to a deep, sophisticated sauce is a bitter and super-sweet soda than can be found in the Latin American aisle of your local grocery store for $0.50? Unlikely, yes, but sometimes unlikely ingredients used in a way to highlight their positives can bring a certain je ne sais quoi to a dish. The key to this sauce is a soda called malta, and is widely distributed around the US by the brands Goya and Hatuey. When used in cooking, malta imparts a rich, molasses flavor on whatever is braised in it as it reduces, and goes especially well with citrus and herbs. Here, I sear chicken thighs until golden and then braise them in a 50/50 mixture of malta and orange juice with a few generous pinches of sage and rosemary. I served the chicken over a parsnip puree infused with more sage, and together, this resulted in one of the best plates of food I've eaten in a while!

PARSNIP PUREE

Ingredients:
1.5 pounds parnsips
1 large (or 2 small) onion
1 bulb fennel
4 cups chicken stock
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste
Sage, chopped, to taste
Olive oil
2 tablespoons butter

Procedure:
(1) Chop onion and fennel. Sautee in olive oil for about 15 minutes.
(2) Cut parnsips into small chunks and add to pan along with salt, pepper, and sage.
(3) Sautee parnsips for about 10 minutes before adding chicken stock.
(4) Allow contents of pan to reach a boil, then simmer over low heat for about 10 more minutes.
(5) Add butter and allow to melt, then puree mixture with an immersion blender of standing blender.

MALTA-ORANGE BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS

Ingredients:
1.5 pounds chicken thighs
6 ounces malta soda
6 ounces orange juice (fresh-squeezed or bottled are both fine)
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Sage, a few generous pinches, chopped
Rosemary, a few generous pinches, chopped
Orange zest, for garnish

Procedure:
(1) Liberally season chicken thighs with salt and pepper.
(2) Sear in olive oil until golden brown; flip and repeat on other side.
(3) Add malta and orange juice to pan along with chopped sage and rosemary.
(4) Allow sauce to reach a simmer and spoon it over chicken thighs every few minutes as it reduces. Once you add the liquid, allow meat to braise for about 15-20 minutes total.
(5) Incorporate some of the excess sauce into the parsnip puree. Serve chicken over puree, spoon extra sauce over top if desired, and garnish with orange zest and more chopped sage.

Burger with Blue Cheese, Bacon, Dijon and Arugula

I really enjoy a good burger every once in a while and this one is a stand-by of mine. First, I am a proponent of a charred crust but red, juicy interior. For that reason, I tend to make my patties pretty large. Next, I add some thick-cut bacon, which goes with pretty much anything. My favorite burger cheese is without question blue, so I add that for even more richness. Dijon mustard is slathered onto the bun for tang, and to round out the flavor profile and cleanse the palate, I add plenty of fresh and peppery arugula. Satisfying and simple.

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Ingredients:

1 pound ground beef (an 80/20 meat/fat ratio is ideal), divided into 2 patties

4 strips thick-cut bacon (2 per burger)

2 ounces blue cheese, roughly crumbled (1 ounce per burger)

Dijon mustard

Arugula

Hamburger buns (here, I used focaccia because that's what I had in the apartment)

Salt and pepper for seasoning

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Procedure:

(1) Cook bacon in a cast-iron skillet. Set aside bacon and either discard the grease or set it aside for later use.

(2) Put skillet over medium heat. Open a window and blow a fan at your fire alarm or disconnect it, because the room will soon fill with smoke!

(3) After forming the patties and seasoning them liberally with salt and pepper, add them to the skillet.

(4) Introduce patties to skillet. Turn the heat down to low-medium and do not move patties for a few minutes. This will allow a crust to form. Flip patties and allow a crust to form on their other side.

(5) Hold patties on the side of the skillet with a metal spatula in order to allow the laterals (the "sides" as opposed to the "tops"/"bottoms") of the burgers to brown. This should take about a minute for each lateral.

(6) At this point, burgers should be cooked to medium-rare. If you desire a more well-done result, transfer burgers to the oven for a couple of more minutes. Anticipate this potentially necessary extra step and preheat oven accordingly.

(7) Serve on buns slathered with dijon mustard and topped with bacon, crumbled blue cheese, and arugula.

Pan-Sauteed Apples

I often see two-pound bags of apples on sale for $2.00-$2.50. When this is the case, I will almost always buy a bag to make this dish. It is such a natural, wholesome thing to eat and can be served as a side, as dessert, or even as a snack. If you like apples at all, you will love this, and if you don't like raw apples, you should definitely give this dish a try; your opinion will likely change. My favorite part of this dish is the natural caramel sauce that forms at the bottom of the pan- no added sugar is needed; the natural sugars of the apples plus some honey or maple syrup are enough to put this dish over the edge!

Ingredients:
2 pounds apples* - peeled, cored, and cut into chunks
3 tablespoons butter (3/8 of one stick)
Juice of half of a lemon
Honey or maple syrup, to taste
Cinnamon, to taste
Nutmeg, to taste
Pepper, to taste
Salt, to taste

*Certain apples tend to fall apart more easily and thus are more appropriate for making applesauce than for making this dish. I tend to have the best luck with the Granny Smith or McIntosh varieties; pink lady and golden delicious are better suited for applesauce.

Procedure:
(1) Squeeze lemon juice into a bowl.
(2) Peel, core, and cut apples into chunks. Toss the chunks in the lemon juice; this will keep them from oxidizing (this is what causes them to turn brown after sitting exposed).
(3) Melt butter into a deep sautee pan. Introduce apples and any excess lemon juice.
(4) Stir to ensure that all apples become coated with melted butter.
(5) Add honey, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste.
(6) Stir every minute or so until apples have softened and a thick sauce has formed.
(7) Serve warm alone or with vanilla ice cream and/or pound cake.

Sweet Potato-Chipotle Soup

Most things I cook are inspired by things I've had before in restaurants and in other people's homes. However, sometimes I see a unique recipe that I just have to try, and that was the case when I came across Homesick Texan's blog post on sweet potato-chipotle soup. When I laid eyes on that recipe for this absolutely delicious Tex-Mex-style thick soup, I left for the market minutes later and prepared it for dinner that very night! This soup is sure to brighten up the coldest of winter days. Here is my version:

Ingredients:
2 pounds sweet potatoes (about 2-3 large ones or 4-5 smaller ones), peeled and cubed
1 pound onions (about 2 large ones or 3 smaller ones), diced
4 cups chicken stock
2 chipotle peppers
Olive oil
Juice of 1 lime
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste
Cumin, to taste
Nutmeg, to taste
Oregano, to taste
Greek yogurt
Pepitas (shelled pumpkin seeds) or sunflower seeds

Procedure:
(1) Put a splash of olive oil in a pan over medium heat.
(2) Add diced onions and sautee for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
(3) Add cubed, peeled sweet potato and mix well with browned onions.
(4) Season with salt, pepper, cumin, nutmeg, and oregano.
(5) Add chicken stock, reduce heat to low-medium, and allow to simmer for about 15-20 minutes.
(6) Before blending, add chiptoles.
(7) Blend with either a standing blender or immersion blender. Soup should be quite thick.
(8) Mix in lime juice before ladling soup into individual portions.
(9) Serve with greek yogurt, either swirled in or added as a dollup.
(10) Garnish with pepitas or sunflower seeds.

Thai Chili-Basil Chicken with Green Mango Salad

I've had more than a few people ask me when it was that I really started to "get into" food. My general answer is that I really started to take pleasure in eating and cooking around age 19 or 20, but if I had to name a pivotal moment, that would be when I had my first bite of the crispy chicken basil at Nud Pob in Boston on a cold and snowy day in November of 2004. Crispy, succulent bits of chicken blanketed with handfuls of Thai basil and strips of fiery red and green chiles over sweet and nutty pad thai... it was heavenly and I will never forget. I used to go back there once per week during college and though I tried several items on the menu, the crispy chicken basil was by far the most memorable. When I moved to New York in 2007, I searched high and low for something similar, and though the crispy pork belly with chili, garlic, and basil at SriPraPhai gave me my fix to an extent, it just wasn't the same. The next time I returned to Boston on a trip to visit a friend, I made a beeline to Nud Pob and ordered order the crispy chicken basil, and I must say that some combination of the heat of the chiles and my sheer joy of being reunited with a long lost favorite caused my eyes to water. Yes, a dish I had eaten dozens of times in a hole-in-the-wall, bare-bones basement restaurant moved me to tears! Here is my twist on the dish, along with a refreshing green (unripe) mango salad.

THAI CHILI-BASIL CHICKEN

Ingredients:
1 pound boneless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch chunks
Cornmeal, to coat chicken chunks
Fish sauce*, to taste
Black soy sauce, to taste
Lime juice, to taste
Handful of Thai basil*
2 kaffir lime leaves*, torn into small pieces
2-4 red or green bird chiles*, minced, depending on desired spiciness
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2-red onion, minced
Cooking oil - olive, peanut, or vegetable are all fine

Procedure:
(1) Coat chicken chunks with cornmeal and set aside.
(2) Put a large skillet or wok over low heat with a liberal pour of cooking oil.
(3) Add minced garlic, onion, kaffir lime leaves, and bird chiles.
(4) After about a minute, turn up the heat to medium and add chicken chunks. Cook on all sides for a few minutes and add a few liberal dashes of fish sauce, black soy sauce, and lime juice. Stir to thoroughly coat chicken chunks with this pan sauce.
(5) After about another minute of cooking, add Thai basil, and allow to wilt a bit while stirring.
(6) Serve chicken and its sauce over white or jasmine rice. Top with more fresh Thai basil.

GREEN MANGO SALAD

Ingredients:
3 green (completely unripe) mangos*
1 tablespoon palm sugar*
1/2-red onion, cut into thin half-moons
Handful of peanuts
Fish sauce*, to taste
Juice of 2 limes
Handful of fresh mint

Procedure:
(1) Grate mangos into matchstick-size bits. If you don't have a grater, you can cut the mango into small, thin strips. Put into a bowl.
(2) Combine with mango a liberal dash of fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar, onion, peanuts, and mint.
(3) Serve at room temperature.

***General note on ingredients***
I understand that many of the ingredients I have mentioned are not available in mainstream grocery stores. If you are in New York, you can find any of the Thai ingredients (except for green mango) in these recipes at Bangkok Center Grocery in Chinatown, just north of City Hall. If you don't have access to a store where these ingredients are sold, here are my suggestions.

-Brown sugar can be substituted for palm sugar.
-Kaffir lime leaves can be left out in favor of slightly more lime juice.
-Jalapeños, serranos, or another type of potent chile can be substituted for bird chiles.
-Though there is no exact substitute for green mango, ripe mango sliced into small pieces combined with grated apple produces a similar flavor and texture. Regarding green mango, this can be very difficult to find. However, if you are in New York, there is an outdoor fruit stand one block to the north of Bangkok Center Grocery that regularly has them.

Patatas Bravas

Today's dish is inspired by another Serious Eats post made earlier this week. Patatas bravas - meaning "angry potatoes" - are a typical Spanish bar snack. The "brava" part of their name refers to the slightly-spicy and tangy sauce that is served over them, which tends to vary depending on where in the country you are. On the coast near Valencia, the sauce is mixed with an aioli and thus has a garlicky flavor; in Madrid, the sauce's tomato base and addition of paprika are what stand out most. This is a crowd-pleasing dish that pretty much everyone will enjoy, so try this at your next party or as a side with dinner.

Ingredients:
2 pounds potatoes*
1 cup tomato sauce
1 tablespoon dijon mustard OR 2 tablespoons mayonaise
1 tablespoon vinegar
Salt and pepper
3 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons cumin
2 teaspoons garlic powder
Cayenne pepper or hot sauce, to taste
Olive oil
Scallions or parsley, for garnish

*Any kind of white potatoes will work here. Russet, fingerling, etc. are all fine to use.

Procedure:
(1) Boil potatoes for about 5-7 minutes until they are still firm but a fork can pierce them.
(2) Remove them from water and allow them to cool while you prepare their sauce.
(3) Combine tomato sauce, mustard or mayonaise, paprika, cumin, vinegar, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper or hot sauce and mix well. Regarding the cayenne pepper or hot sauce, put in as much as you'd like. I suggest adding a little at first and then adding more to increase the level of desired spiciness, as it is easy to add spiciness but difficult to reduce spiciness unless you increase the quantity of the rest of the ingredients. Traditionally, salsa brava is mildly spicy.
(4) Put a cast iron skillet (if you don't have one, just use a regular skillet) over medium-high heat.
(5) Cube potatoes or cut them into small wedges and toss in olive oil, salt, and pepper.
(6) Add potatoes to skillet and toss occasionally to make sure that they become crisp on their exterior.
(7) When potatoes are done, serve them on a plate or in a large bowl, covered in sauce and garnished with scallions or parsley.

Salsa Verde

Salsa verde is usually slightly sweet and quite mild on the salsa spectrum. Since I tend to prefer my salsas a bit more aggressive in terms of flavor, I turned up the heat a bit on my version, omitted the sugar that's often added, and increased the amount of citrus usually used. The result is a medium-spicy, tart but balanced sauce that's great as a dip or served with chicken or eggs.

Ingredients:
Six tomatillos
Two poblano peppers
One large serrano chile
Three cloves garlic
Half of a large onion
Juice of one lime
Pinch of salt

Procedure:
(1) Remove husks from tomatillos, then boil them for 5-10 minutes until the skin on all has started to split.
(2) Remove tomatillos with a slotted spoon and peel skin. Cut into chunks.
(3) If you have a gas stove, roast each of the poblanos over a burner until skin is thouroughly charred. If you don't have a gas stove, do this in the broiler.
(4) When roasting is complete, put the poblanos in a closed plastic bag and allow them to sit in their own steam for about 10 minutes. This will make it easier for you to remove their skins. When skins are removed, slice poblanos into strips.
(5) Cut the serrano, garlic, and onions into chunks.
(6) Add all ingredients into a blender or food processor with the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Blend to desired consistency.

Salty Sticky Sweet Vinegar Drumsticks

I was browsing Serious Eats last week when I found a recipe for "vinegar-glazed chicken." Since I am a vinegar fan, I just had to try it, but with my own spin. Instead of serving the chicken over polenta, as the recipe suggested, I came to the conclusion that with football season in full swing, why not serve these drumsticks in the style of chicken wings? They are salty, sticky, sweet, and finger-lickin' good, and would be just as well-received at a Super Bowl party as they would at a sit-down dinner party. If you're serving them as finger food, a good blue cheese dressing would pair well with the tartness of the vinegar glaze on the meat.


Ingredients:
Chicken drumsticks (here, I used 8 large ones)
3/4-cup vinegar*
Four cloves garlic
Three teaspoons chopped rosemary
Salt and pepper, to taste
3/4-cup chicken broth
Olive oil

*Here, I used rice vinegar. Red wine vinegar would also work well. However, I would avoid balsamic vinegar for this particular recipe due to how quicky it thickens and hardens as it is heated. If it hardens around the drumsticks and on the sides of the pan, it can cause the drumsticks to taste burnt and bitter.

Procedure:
(1) Combine vinegar with minced garlic and chopped rosemary. Allow flavors to meld as you prepare the chicken.
(2) Season drumsticks with salt and pepper.
(3) Add a splash of olive oil to the pan and put on medium heat. Add drumsticks and brown on all sides.
(4) When chicken is thoroughly browned, remove drumsticks to a plate and remove any excess oil from the plan. Deglaze the plan with chicken broth and return drumsticks to that same pan.
(5) Allow chicken broth to reduce until about 75% of it is gone from the pan. At this point, add the vinegar/garlic/rosemary mixture.
(6) As the vinegar mixture reduces, turn drumsticks so that they are coated on all sides. Remove pan from burner when sauce is thick and syrupy in consistency, and serve chicken soon after.

Baba Ghanoush

For a long time, I tried so hard to love eggplant. It's just that with all the mediocre-to-bad eggplant parmesan I had eaten over the years, I felt my quest to be converted was destined to fail. I may have had a decent caponata once, but just wasn't convinced. But then, one day in late 2007, soon after moving to New York, I went on a limb and ordered "fire roasted eggplant dip" at a hole-in-the-wall Middle Eastern place in Brooklyn at 2:00 in the morning. It had a tangy, smokey and complex flavor that was nothing like the slimy, bitter eggplant I had tasted in the past. The dish's Arabic name was baba ghanoush, and it made me an eggplant convert. Akin to fashion, this dish is a testament to how essential it is to prepare ingredients in ways that are flattering to their textures and flavor profiles. And yes, I'm thinking of you, too, brussels sprouts!

I got this recipe from David Lebovitz's Living the Sweet Life in Paris blog, and made just a few small modifications.

Ingredients:
Two large eggplants (also known as aubergines)
1/2-cup tahini*
Three cloves garlic
Juice of two lemons
Depending on how thick you want the dip to be, either 1 or 1-1/2 tablespoon olive oil
Salt, to taste
Teaspoon smoked paprika
Cilantro or parsley, a handful to be incorporated into the dip and more to garnish it
Olives, for garnish

*Tahini is a ground sesame paste that can be found in Middle Eastern markets and in many supermarkets. It's an ingredient in hummus as well.

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
(2) If you have a gas stove, char each eggplant, one per burner, directly over the open flame and turn it every minute or so until all sides are slightly charred. This should take about 5 minutes and will impart a slightly smokey flavor on the eggplant's inner flesh. For a more aggressive smokey flavor, char for 10 minutes. If you have an electric stove, use the broiler to achieve the same char effect.
(2) Put the eggplants on a tray and let bake for 30 minutes. When eggplants are ready, remove from oven and allow to cool slightly to make it easier for you to handle the flesh,.
(3) When eggplants have cooled slightly, scoop out all of the flesh.
(4) Using a blender or food processor, combine the eggplant flesh with the tahini, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, cilantro or parsley, smoked paprika, and salt.
(5) Garnish with olives and remaining cilantro or parsley, and serve with pita bread or cucumber slices for dipping.

Coconut-Breaded Tilapia with Pineapple Salsa and Cuban Black Beans

Sometimes during the cold winter, I just want to eat something that reminds me of the warm waters of the Caribbean. If you desire to be reminded of the same, try this quick, easy meal. I bread the tilapia in the same way I bread coconut shrimp, but instead of serving it with a dipping sauce, I prepare a chunky pineapple salsa to go over it. To complete the plate, I serve Cuban black beans that have been adorned with fresh cilantro and crumbled cotija cheese.


COCONUT-BREADED TILAPIA

Ingredients:
Tilapia filets (here I used four)
Flour
1/4-can coconut milk
Dried or shredded coconut
One egg
Oil for light frying

Procedure:
(1) At least 30 minutes before you wish to serve the tilapia, it will need to be breaded and the breading will need to set. Breading ahead of time and placing the breaded fish in the fridge will help the breading to stick so that it won't come apart during the cooking process. Set up a breading station with three large bowls; one for the flour, another for the coconut milk mixed with the egg, and another for the dried or shredded coconut. If you use long, sweet coconut shreds, it is best to combine these with panko breadcrumbs. Dried coconut is already very similar in texture to breadcrumbs and can be used on its own.
(2) Rub flour on both sides of each filet. Transfer each filet to the coconut milk and egg mixture and coat thoroughly, shaking off any excess. Finally, thoroughly coat each filet with coconut.
(3) When breading is complete, transfer filets immediately to the fridge. Allow them to sit for at least 30 minutes so that the breading hardens somewhat; it sticks better this way.
(4) Cover the bottom of a large skillet with oil for cooking. There is no need to submerge the filets entirely, as they will be flipped halfway through cooking. Set the burner to medium heat.
(5) When oil is ready, introduce the filets to the skillet but do not overcrowd it. If you can only comfortably fit two filets in the skillet, that is fine; just do a second batch. Fry each filet until it is golden brown on the bottom, and then do the same to the reverse side.
(6) Remove fish to a double-folded paper towel to collect any excess oil.

PINEAPPLE SALSA

Ingredients:
Two cups pineapple, cut into small cubes
1/2-red onion, diced
1/2-jalapeño, diced
Handful of cilantro, chopped
Juice of one lime

Procedure: Combine all ingredients and allow to sit in the fridge while the fish's breading sets. This allows all flavors of the ingredients to meld and produces a more cohesive salsa.

CUBAN BLACK BEANS

Ingredients:
Can of black beans
1/2-red onion, minced
Four cloves garlic, minced
Juice of one lime
Oregano
Salt and pepper
Cumin
Handful of cilantro (for garnish)
Crumbled cotija cheese (for garnish)
Olive oil

Procedure:
(1) Drizzle olive oil into a saucepan. Saute onions for a few minutes and then add garlic. Stir well and allow to cook for a couple more minutes.
(2) Add lime juice and season with salt, pepper, oregano, and cumin.
(3) Add beans and stir well. Allow beans to cook until the sauce is at the thickness you desire.
(4) Garnish beans with crumbled cotija cheese and plenty of chopped cilantro.

Bacon, Brussels Sprouts & Smoked Mozzarella Pizza

First pizza post of what is likely to be several to come. Tonight's dinner is inspired by what I often order at my favorite pizzeria in the city. Their version is a white (sauceless) pie, non-smoked mozzarella, and instead of bacon, they use pancetta, which has much less of a smokey flavor. Since I don't have a pizza oven that reaches 800 degrees F, I form my pizza in a pre-heated cast-iron skillet and then transfer it down to the broiler. Though this method takes longer than it would with a blazing hot wood-fire or brick oven, it cooks the pizza much more rapidly than just sticking it in the oven to bake, and, gives you a nice crispy crust with char just as you would find in a pizzeria.

I will hesitantly confess that due to how little counterspace I have, I do not make my own dough. I've tried it before and had relative success, but have found that it's just much easier and more practical to buy the $0.99 dough at Trader Joe's. It's a quality product and a great value, and frankly, the 16-ounce portion is enough to make two pies, that is, if you like your crust relatively thin. If the TJ's after-work line is too long for you to bear or if there isn't a TJ's near you, a good alternative is to walk into the nearest decent pizzeria and ask them to sell you a ball of dough. Before I discovered the TJ's option, I did this often, and found that the going price is about $3.00 here in New York.

Now, whether I prepare homemade sauce depends on how much time I have. My go-to recipe is one large can of San Marzano crushed or whole tomatoes, a large onion split in half, a few garlic cloves split in half, and a large handful of basil leaves, seasoned with salt, pepper, and oregano. Cook all of this over medium-heat until the sauce starts to spatter; at this point, it's best to reduce the heat to low. When the extra liquid has evaporated and the sauce has thickened, fish out the garlic and onions halves. You'll have plenty of sauce for your pizza and, if you'd like, for breadsticks, which I prepare with any remaining dough. If you're in a hurry, just use your favorite marinara sauce.

Ingredients:
16-ounce ball of dough
Flour
Olive oil
Sauce
Smoked mozzarella, 4-6 ounces
Three slices thick-cut bacon
Petals of four brussels sprouts
Salt, pepper and oregano
Asiago cheese

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven, with cast-iron skillet inside, to 500 degrees F.
(2) While oven is pre-heating, fry bacon and prepare dough. Assuming use of a standard 10-inch cast iron skillet, divide dough into equal portions. Coat dough in flour so that it moves around quite easily on whatever surface you're using to prepare it. I often use a large, round pizza pan. Set aside one portion of the dough for breadsticks, and knead and stretch the other portion to fit skillet. Do not, however, introduce it to the skillet yet. Drizzle dough with olive oil and rub.
(3) Since once you introduce the dough to the skillet, it will cook very rapidly, you must have all of your toppings ready to go, a technique called mise-en-place ("set in place"). Cut mozzarella into thin discs, cut bacon into small chunks, and remove the petals from the brussels sprouts.
(4) Introduce the dough to the skillet, the side rubbed with olive oil going face-down. The olive oil prevents the dough from sticking to the super-hot pan. NEVER, and I repeat NEVER, add olive oil directly to a screaming hot pan, as it will likely combust within seconds. Olive oil has a very low smoke point.
(5) Add sauce, mozzarella, bacon, and brussels sprout petals. After a couple of minutes of cooking on the stovetop, transfer pizza to under broiler. It only needs a few more minutes' worth of cooking, so check after 90 seconds and then again with each passing minute.
(6) As soon as pizza is introduced to broiler, cut breadsticks from reserved dough. Brush or drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper and oregano. Twist or extend breadsticks as you wish, and introduce them to oven.
(7) When pizza's crust is golden brown and brussels sprout petals are slightly charred, remove skillet from broiler. Since the skillet will be extremely hot, remove it with a thick oven mit or kitchen towl. Firmly grip the skillet with one hand, and with the other hand, use a spoon or metal spatula to slide the pizza out from the skillet and onto a serving platter.
(8) Top pizza with thinly shaved or grated asiago cheese.
(9) A few minutes later, check on the breadsticks. If they are not yet a light golden color, leave them in the oven for a couple minutes longer. Serve with any remaining sauce and a simple arugula salad.

Here are some close-ups:

Roasted Parsnip Wedges

I love parsnips. To me they taste like a combination of carrots and celeriac, and like those other vegetables, are perfect for roasting.

Ingredients:
Parsnips
Olive oil
Parsley
Garlic powder
Salt and pepper

Procedure:
(1) Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
(2) Cut the parsnips into wedges and distribute onto a baking pan.
(3) Coat well with olive oil and sprinkle liberally with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.
(4) When the oven is ready, roast the parsnips for about 40 minutes. A little more than halfway through the cooking time, toss them so that the crispier bottoms are now rightside-up.
(5) The finished product should be crispy on the edges and still somewhat soft in the center. Sprinkle with a generous amount of chopped parsley.

Potato, Tomato, Onion & Apple Curry

Admittedly, this is not the most photogenic dish. It is, however, inexpensive, fragrant, and well-balanced in terms of flavor. Though I am not a vegetarian, I do not miss meat when eating this as a main course.

I started making this dish a few months ago when I had a surplus of little grape tomatoes on hand. I put them in a pan over low heat with some olive oil, and as the tomatoes started to release their juices, added some chopped onion and herbs. For dinner that night, I ate simply that mixture over leftover rice. As you will see, I have added some ingredients to make this a one-pot dish with a nod to India that is big on flavor and easy on clean-up.

Ingredients:
Two potatoes, cubed
Two apples, cubed
Two medium-sized onions, cut into thin rings
Two packages of grape or cherry tomatoes
Greek yogurt
Chicken or vegetable stock
Olive oil
Garam masala*
Nutmeg
Cinnamon
Salt and pepper
Fresh mint

*This is a spice mix that can be purchased in South Asian or Middle Eastern groceries and even in some supermarkets with a good selection of spices. If you cannot find it, many online retailers carry it. If you wish, you can substitute common yellow curry powder, but be advised that the taste of the curry will be less balanced.

Procedure:
(1) Drizzle some olive oil in a deep pot and set to medium heat. Add the tomatoes along with a few pinches of salt and pepper.
(2) After about five minutes, the tomatoes will start to release some of their juices. At this point, add the onion and stir to coat it with the tomato juice.
(3) When the onion has cooked down and significantly softened, add the potato and apple cubes.
(4) Add a three pinches of garam masala and a pinch each of nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir to evenly distribute.
(5) Allow the mixture to cook down and all of the liquid in the pot to be absorbed. At this point, add about a cup of chicken or vegetable stock and stir.
(6) When the chicken stock has been absorbed, fish out a potato cube and test for doneness. If the potato is not completely cooked, add a bit more chicken stock and test again in a few minutes.
(7) When the potatoes have cooked through, take the pot off of the heat and add a few tablespoons of greek yogurt. Stir well and serve in bowls, garnished with plenty of fresh mint.

Donuts for Brunch

I don't prepare a lot of sweets, let alone in the A.M. hours. However, given yesterday's bitter cold, my morning hunger, and a sparsely-stocked fridge, I wanted something quick and satisfying to start out the day. Since last week one of the stores I frequent had a great sale on canned biscuits, I happened to have some left over and decided to use them to make these donuts. Yes, I know, I could have made the batter myself, but since I'm much more into cooking than baking and my stomach was growling, the canned biscuits served me well!

Ingredients:
Vegetable oil
Canned biscuits (these can be found in the butter and yogurt aisle of your grocery store)
Sugar
Cinnamon

Procedure:
(1) Put enough vegetable oil in a frying pan to cover the bottom with about one inch of depth. There's no need to deep fry these; in other words, there's no need that the entire donut be submerged. Set burner to medium heat.
(2) Set out each biscuit and punch a large hole to remove its center. This is best done with a screw-cap that you would find on a bottle of water or soda. Don't get rid of what you take out from the center; these will be donut holes that you can fry after the donuts themselves are done!
(3) Test the oil to see if it's ready for frying. This can be done by dropping one of the donut holes into the oil. If it starts turning dark brown very quickly or the kitchen starts smelling smokey, the oil is too hot. If there's little-to-no bubbling when you drop it in, the oil is too cold.
(4) When your oil is ready, put in several donuts. Don't overcrowd the pan, as this will cause the temperature of the oil to drop and in turn could cause your donuts to absorb too much oil, making them soggy. As the donuts puff up and turn golden brown, flip them and allow the other side to do the same.
(5) When the donuts are done, take them out of the oil with a pair of tongs and place them on a double-folded paper towel to collect any excess oil. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon while still warm and serve soon after.